A Harley Davidson crash bar is a steel loop that bolts to the frame downtubes and sits proud of the engine, so that when the bike goes over the bar hits the ground instead of your primary cover, your exhaust, your floorboard and your leg.
The name oversells it slightly, which is why the same part is also called an engine guard, a highway bar or a freeway bar. It is not going to save a motorcycle from a real crash. What it does save the bike from is the thing that actually happens: a stationary tip-over in a car park, a foot that finds gravel at walking pace, a kickstand that was not quite down.
Why it earns its money
Those low-speed drops are common, they are expensive, and they are almost entirely preventable with $60 of tubing. A scuffed primary cover, a cracked floorboard and a bent lever will cost more than the bar did, and that is before the engine case.
Owner evidence rather than theory. A Sportster owner: his wife dropped the bike several times on each side, and the damage was "some minor scratches on the rear blinkers" and the lever tips. The bar took the rest.
And a Harley engine guard has a second job most buyers do not think about when they order it: it is the mounting point for highway pegs, which is the cheapest way to change your riding position on a long day.
What you will get from this guide
- An honest answer on whether crash bars work, with the owner reports rather than the marketing.
- The fitment traps, which on Touring bikes are severe and model-year specific.
- Why the tubing diameter decides your accessory options before you have bought a single accessory.
- The hardware problem, which affected three of the four guards in this research and which you can solve for $8 before you start.
- Harley highway pegs - which clamp type holds and which one rattles loose.
- 10 products compared, every price, rating and owner quote checked on the product page.
One thing worth knowing before you read anything else. There is currently no editorial comparison of Harley crash bars on the first page of Google - it is ten shops and five forum threads of riders asking each other what to buy. This guide is the article those threads are asking for.
- 1-1/4 in (32 mm) steel tubing, the size the whole accessory market is built for
- Largest review base of any Harley crash bar here at 843 ratings
- Direct chrome replacement for the factory Touring bar
- Cheapest guard here, with over 1,000 ratings
- Integrated rubber pads on the tube give a footrest without buying pegs
- States mounting hardware included and no modification needed
- Triple plated chrome - copper, then nickel, then chrome
- Wide Softail FL fitment 2000-2017 including Fat Boy, Deluxe, Slim and Heritage
- 1-1/4 in (32 mm) tubing
- Narrow mustache profile that does not stick out into a parking space
- Direct replacement for OEM part 49140-05
- 1-1/4 in (32 mm) iron tubing
- P-clamp mount - a closed ring bolted around the tube, not an open U
- Locks the peg at any angle to suit your leg reach
- Zinc alloy clamp with an aluminium peg to save weight
- Reversible mount so short riders pull in and tall riders reach forward
- Clamp rotates 360 degrees and locks at the chosen angle
- Anti-slip clamp design aimed at stopping rotation under load
- U-clamp spans 1 in to 1-1/4 in, so it fits older thinner bars
- Billet aluminium body with a rubber peg insert
- Cheapest peg kit here
- High density rubber that compresses on impact instead of the chrome
- Sized for 31 mm to 33 mm (1-1/4 in) bars
- Textured non-slip surface, useful if you rest a boot on the bar
- 6 litres of waterproof PVC-coated polyester with welded seams
- Four-point strap system with cam buckles that hold tension over bumps
- Four mounting configurations: crash bar, pannier rack, tank
- 151 stainless fasteners in 10 labelled packs by location
- 304 stainless, so no rust on primary, derby or cam cover bolts
- Knurled heads to match the OEM appearance
The largest review base of any Harley crash bar found, 843 ratings at 4.6, and the correct 1-1/4 inch tubing that every highway peg clamp and rubber cover is built for. Read the exclusion line before ordering: the headline says 2009-2024 but several recent Road Glide and Street Glide years are cut out.
Are crash bars worth it on a Harley?
Yes, for the accident you are actually going to have. No, for the one you are imagining.
What the owner reports show
The clearest one comes from a Sportster owner whose wife was learning: "My wife dropped the bike a few times on each side. The crash bar did its job. Still got some minor scratches on the rear blinkers." Several drops, each side, and the damage list is blinkers and lever tips.
Another bought his after the fact, having tipped his own bike over in the driveway with the kickstand not quite down. That is the single most common way a Harley falls over, and it is the scenario a bar is engineered for.
Where the limit is
One owner in this research hit a deer at 40 mph on a Fat Boy. The forks and the windshield were damaged. The rest of the bike came through comparatively well, but nobody should read that as a crash bar preventing a crash.
The honest framing: a crash bar is excellent below about 10 mph and useful up to walking speed on its side. Above that it is buying you time and metal, not immunity.
The second reason people fit them
Highway pegs. A full wraparound guard gives you two horizontal tubes at exactly the right place to clamp a peg, and stretching your legs out changes a three-hour ride more than most $500 upgrades do. A Softail owner in this research says the bar is what finally let her get her foot up and ride the bike comfortably.
If you are buying a bar mainly for pegs, that changes which bar you should buy - see the diameter section below, because it decides whether the pegs will clamp on at all.
Fitment: the traps that make crash bars for Harley Davidson different by model
This is where the money gets wasted, and Touring bikes are the worst offenders. Read the exclusion line on the listing, not the headline year range.
Touring: the year range lies by omission
A typical Touring guard states 2009-2024 across the top and then excludes, in the small print:
- 2023 and later CVO Road Glide and Street Glide
- 2024 and later Road Glide and Street Glide
- 2025 and later Street Glide Ultra
- FLRT trikes, unless you buy a separate bracket (P/N 45700054)
- 2010-2011 FLHXXX, which needs another bracket again (P/N 83865-09)
So "2009-2024" in practice means most of that range with several holes in it. If your bike is 2023 or newer, check the exclusion list twice.
Softail: forward controls kill it
Softail guards are commonly voided by a forward control kit. One listing says so outright: it does not fit bikes with forward controls. If you have moved your pegs forward, the bar and your feet want the same space.
Sportster: front spoilers
Sportster bars covering 2004-later XL will not clear a front spoiler. Simple, cheap to get wrong.
Two clearance conflicts owners actually hit
- The rear brake master cylinder. One owner found the right-side mounting tab sat too close and had to grind it down to fit.
- The frame clutch cable bracket. On a Softail it fouls the top mount of a mustache bar: "Clutch cable bracket on frame in the way. Need to space at top mount. Easy fix."
Neither is fatal, but both turn a fifteen minute job into an hour, and neither appears on any listing.
1.25 inch or 1.5 inch tubing, and why it decides everything else
Almost the entire Harley aftermarket runs on 1-1/4 inch (32 mm) tubing. All four guards in this guide are that size. Heavier 1.5 inch bars exist as an upgrade, and they cost roughly $150 to $190 against $53 to $110 for a 1.25 inch bar.
The trade nobody explains
The fat bar looks better and is stronger. It also cuts you out of most of the accessory market, because everything that clamps to a crash bar is diameter specific.
- Highway peg clamps are made for 32 mm. A 1.25 inch P-clamp physically will not close around a 1.5 inch bar. One buyer in this research hit exactly that: "They are too small, they won't fit on my bar."
- Rubber slider covers are sold for 31 to 33 mm only.
- Most bar bags and cup holder mounts assume the same.
The rule
Buy 1.25 inch unless you have a specific reason not to. It is cheaper, it is what the accessory market is built around, and the strength difference matters at speeds where the bar was never going to save the bike anyway.
Buy 1.5 inch if you want the look and you have already checked that the pegs and covers you want exist in that size.
And if you are buying a bar and pegs together, order them in the same session and check the two numbers match. That is the single most common return in this category.
The Harley Davidson engine guard hardware problem, and the $8 fix
This is the finding that surprised us most, and it is consistent enough to plan around. Three of the four guards researched for this guide had owners report incomplete mounting hardware. None of the four ships instructions.
What actually turns up in the box
A Softail owner: "The bar seems solid, nice powder coat finish. The only issue I had with installation is that the hardware is incomplete. It came with 3 bolts and 1 washer." No nuts.
Another on the same bar: "May need some new bolts for the OEM bolts and nuts. Ones shipped were not useful."
A Fat Boy owner on the mustache bar gave it four stars instead of five purely because of the hardware. And one listing does not even pretend: it states in the description that there are no instructions and no mounting hardware included.
The plating problem
On the Touring bar, a different failure: the chrome plating chipped off the supplied bolts while they were being torqued down. Cosmetically annoying, and a hint about the grade of the fastener you are trusting.
One owner also found the captive nut for the top insert was poorly welded and did not hold.
What to do
Before you start, spend eight dollars at a hardware store on grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers in the sizes your frame mounts use, and treat whatever comes in the box as a bonus. It converts a stalled Saturday into a fifteen minute job.
And have a second pair of hands. Every guard in this guide is a one-person job in theory and an awkward one in practice - you are holding a four kilogram steel loop in place with one hand while starting a frame bolt with the other.
How hard is it to fit?
Easier than it looks. Most guards are a three-bolt job into the frame downtubes, no exhaust removal, no wiring, and owners consistently report 15 to 30 minutes once the hardware is right.
A Sportster owner: "Quality is solid, there are zero instructions but it is pretty obvious where it gets installed." That is the honest summary of the whole category.
The sequence
- Loosen, but do not remove, the frame bolts the guard will share.
- Offer the bar up and start every bolt by hand before tightening any of them. If you fully torque one side first, the other will not line up.
- Check clearance at the rear brake master cylinder and at any frame-mounted cable brackets before you torque anything.
- Tighten evenly, side to side.
- Turn the bars to full lock both ways and check nothing touches.
- Re-check the bolts after the first 100 miles. A crash bar is a big lever on two frame bolts.
The two things that go wrong
- Bolts too short. Reported on the Sportster bar. If the bolt only catches two threads, do not ride it.
- Something in the way. The master cylinder tab and the clutch cable bracket, covered above. Both are solved with a grinder or a spacer, both are five minutes if you find them before you have everything torqued.
Harley Davidson highway pegs: which clamp actually holds
Once the bar is on, highway pegs for Harley Davidson models are a $23 to $45 upgrade that changes a long ride more than most expensive parts do. They clamp to the horizontal section of the guard and let you stretch your legs out.
Two clamp types, and only one of them works
| Type | How it grips | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| P-clamp | A closed ring around the bar, bolted tight | Holds. Both good kits in this guide use it. |
| U-clamp | An open U with a plate across it | Slips and rattles. |
The cheap U-clamp kit in this research gets exactly the complaint you would predict. "They are still janky! Been on my bike for a while and I was hoping that as I rode they would settle into place because they rattle terribly." Another owner has to keep pushing the peg back into position as it rotates under his foot.
Twenty-two dollars against forty-five is not a saving if you spend the ride nudging your foot peg.
Match the diameter, exactly
Peg clamps are made for a specific tube size. A 1.25 inch clamp will not close on a 1.5 inch bar, and a buyer in this research found that out after the parcel arrived. Measure your bar before ordering, and remember that older or thinner bars may be 1 inch, which needs a clamp that spans both sizes.
Reach works both ways
Good peg kits mount reversibly, so a shorter rider can pull the pegs in and a taller one can push them forward. The adjustability is the point - a peg in the wrong place is worse than no peg. One kit here rotates 360 degrees and locks at any angle.
The minor gripe
Spring detents that hold the pegs folded away are the weak point on most kits. "The spring clips that hold them up could be a bit better, but it's functional." Nobody in this research reported one letting go while riding.
Harley Davidson engine guard styles: wraparound, mustache and rear
Full wraparound engine guard for Harley Davidson
The traditional shape: down from the frame, out past the engine, and back. Maximum protection, maximum surface for highway pegs, and the widest profile. If pegs are part of the plan, this is the one.
Mustache bar
A short, curved bar that hugs the engine rather than wrapping around it. Narrower, cleaner, and it does not stick out into a parking space. A Fat Boy owner: "Doesn't stick out too wide like others I've seen."
The trade is that it protects less and there is far less tube to clamp a peg onto. Choose it for looks and low-speed protection, not as a peg mount.
Flat-out bars
The low, flat style Harley itself sells. Riders on the forums ask directly whether these protect as well as a traditional full guard, and the honest answer is that a lower bar contacts the ground later and offers less leverage against the bike rolling. It is a styling choice with a protection cost.
Rear crash bars
Saddlebag guards that protect the rear of a bagger. A separate purchase from the front guard, and worth considering if your bike drops on its side rather than tipping forward - which on a loaded Touring bike is the more likely direction.
What else bolts to a crash bar
Rubber slider covers
High density rubber sleeves that slide over the tubing and take the first contact in a tip-over, so the chrome underneath survives. Around $17 for a pair, sized for 31 to 33 mm bars.
They are stiff to fit. The seller's own tip is to soak them in hot water first, and owners confirm you want pliers or vice grips: "Fit great and are very grippy, great quality and super easy to install if you got some vice grips or pliers."
Crash bar bags
A waterproof pouch that straps to the guard, typically around 6 litres, for the things you want reachable without opening a saddlebag. Four-point strap systems with cam buckles hold tension over bumps.
Two honest caveats: most of these are designed for adventure bike crash bars, so check the strap span against a wide Harley touring guard. And they are generic products sold under several brand names, which one owner points out when discussing the price.
Cup holders and light mounts
Both clamp the same way as a highway peg and both are diameter specific. Same rule applies: match the number to your tubing before you order.
Mistakes that waste money on a crash bar
- Reading the headline year range and not the exclusions. A 2009-2024 Touring bar excludes several recent model years outright.
- Buying a Softail guard when you run forward controls. They want the same space.
- Buying 1.5 inch tubing and then shopping for pegs. The clamps do not exist in the numbers 1.25 inch does.
- Trusting the supplied hardware. Three of four guards here shipped short. Buy grade 8 fasteners first.
- Torquing one side fully before starting the other bolts. It will not line up.
- Not checking clearance at the rear master cylinder and any frame cable bracket before final tightening.
- Buying U-clamp highway pegs to save twenty dollars. They rattle and rotate.
- Forgetting to re-check the bolts after 100 miles. A crash bar is a long lever on two fasteners.
- Expecting it to save the bike in a real crash. It is built for the driveway, not the highway.
The best crash bars, engine guards and highway pegs for Harley-Davidson
Ten products: four guards covering Touring, Softail and Sportster plus a mustache bar, three highway peg kits, and the accessories that clamp to them. Every price, rating and owner quote was checked on the product page.
All four guards here are 1-1/4 inch tubing, which is deliberate - it is what the peg clamps and covers below are built for.
Engine guards and crash bars
Four bars covering the main families. Check the exclusion line for your model year before ordering any of them, and buy grade 8 fasteners at the same time.
TCMT Engine Guard Crash Bar for Harley Touring 2009-2024
Front engine guard, 1-1/4 in (32 mm) steel tubing, chrome. Direct replacement for the factory bar.
Fits 2009-2024 Touring and Trike. EXCLUDES 2023-later CVO Road Glide and Street Glide, 2024-later Road Glide and Street Glide, 2025-later Street Glide Ultra and FLRT. 2015-later FLRT needs bracket P/N 45700054; 2010-2011 FLHXXX needs P/N 83865-09.
The volume choice for a bagger, and the one to start with if you ride a Street Glide, Road Glide, Road King or Electra Glide inside the covered years. 843 ratings at 4.6 is the largest review base of any Harley crash bar found.
Owners on the fit. A 2005 Electra Glide owner: "Fit my 05 Electraglide perfectly! Great looking and really helps me get rid of some of the flashy, dated chrome off my bike. My factory lowers fit right back on." Another who was expecting trouble: "I was a little apprehensive as it's not an OEM HD product and some similar bars seem to have fitting issues, but the quality was great." And a 2005 Ultra owner: "Looks good. Fit my 2005 Ultra great."
Read the exclusion list before you order. The headline says 2009-2024, and it means 2009-2024 with several recent models cut out: 2023-later CVO Road Glide and Street Glide, 2024-later Road Glide and Street Glide, and 2025-later Street Glide Ultra are not covered. Two other model years need a bracket bought separately. If your bike is 2023 or newer, check twice.
Three specific problems from owners, all fixable but worth knowing.
The chrome plating chipped off the supplied bolts during torquing - cosmetic, but a hint about the fastener grade. The right-side mounting tab sat too close to the rear brake master cylinder on one bike and had to be ground down. And the captive nut for the top insert was poorly welded on one unit and did not hold well.
Buy grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers before you start, and check master cylinder clearance before you torque anything.
What owners say: “Fit my 05 Electraglide perfectly! Great looking and really helps me get rid of some of the flashy, dated chrome off my bike. My factory lowers fit right back on. - Kawphe”
- 1-1/4 in (32 mm) steel tubing, the size the whole accessory market is built for
- Largest review base of any Harley crash bar here at 843 ratings
- Direct chrome replacement for the factory Touring bar
- Covers Road King, Street Glide, Road Glide and Electra Glide across the range
- Factory lowers refit over it per one owner
- Best-reviewed Touring guard by a wide margin
- Confirmed bolt-on on multiple Electra Glide and Ultra years
- Correct 1.25 in diameter for pegs and covers
- Owners report factory lowers going straight back on
- Several recent model years excluded despite the headline range
- Two model years need a bracket bought separately
- Chrome chipped off the supplied bolts during torquing
- Right-side tab fouled the rear brake master cylinder on one bike
- Captive top-mount nut poorly welded on one unit
TCT-MOTORPARTS 1-1/4 in Engine Guard Crash Bar for Sportster
Front engine guard, 1-1/4 in iron tubing, triple dipped chrome, about 4 kg. Integrated rubber pads give a footrest surface. Mounting hardware included.
Fits 2004-later Sportster XL and 2008-2013 XR. WILL NOT FIT with front spoilers. Listing states mounting hardware included and no modification needed.
The cheapest credible guard in this guide at $53, with over a thousand ratings, and the one carrying the best real-world protection evidence in the whole research.
An owner whose wife was learning: "Good stuff. My wife dropped the bike a few times on each side. The crash bar did its job. Still got some minor scratches on the rear blinkers." Several drops, both sides, and the damage list is blinkers and lever tips.
Another bought it for his daughter's Sportster: "Purchased for my daughter's sporty for added protection, looked and fit great, and sure enough she laid it down in a slow gravel turn." That is the exact scenario a crash bar is for.
A 2013 Iron 883 owner on the install: "Quality is solid, there are zero instructions but it is pretty obvious where it gets installed."
Two nice details for the money. It is the only guard here that states mounting hardware is included and no modification is needed. And it has integrated rubber pads moulded onto the tube, which give a slip-resistant footrest surface without buying highway pegs at all - useful if you just want somewhere to stretch a leg.
The limits: no instructions in the box, the supplied bolts run a little short for some Sportsters, and it is an awkward one-person job holding four kilograms of steel while starting a frame bolt.
And check for a front spoiler, because the listing excludes those outright.
What owners say: “Good stuff. My wife dropped the bike a few times on each side. The crash bar did its job. Still got some minor scratches on the rear blinkers. - Gill”
- Cheapest guard here, with over 1,000 ratings
- Integrated rubber pads on the tube give a footrest without buying pegs
- States mounting hardware included and no modification needed
- 1-1/4 in iron tubing, triple dipped chrome
- Covers 2004-later Sportster XL and 2008-2013 XR
- Documented protection: multiple drops, damage limited to blinkers and lever tips
- The strongest protection evidence in this research
- Cheapest guard in the guide
- Hardware actually included, unlike most here
- Rubber footrest pads built in
- No instructions in the box
- Supplied bolts run short on some Sportsters
- Will not fit with a front spoiler
- Awkward to hold in place single-handed
Mofun Crash Bar Engine Guard for Harley Softail FL 2000-2017
Front engine guard, 1-1/4 in (32 mm) tubing, triple plated chrome over copper and nickel.
Fits Softail FL 2000-2017: Fat Boy FLSTF, Fat Boy EFI, Fat Boy Lo, Softail Deluxe FLSTN, Softail Slim, Heritage. DOES NOT FIT bikes with forward control kits. Hardware listed as included but owners report it arriving incomplete.
The Softail answer, covering a wide slice of the FL family from 2000 to 2017 - Fat Boy, Deluxe, Slim and Heritage in one fitment list.
The finish is the selling point: triple plating in copper, nickel and chrome, which is the proper process rather than a single flash coat, and it is why this costs $110 against $53 for the Sportster bar.
A 2005 Night Train owner: "Bought this for my 2005 HD Softail Night Train. Holes lined up easy enough. Fits great. Looks good." A 2003 Night Train owner: "Fit my 2003 Harley Davidson Night Train perfectly."
And a nicely honest five-star review from someone who has not needed it yet: "Very nice guard. Looks cool and is well built. I hope I don't need it."
Two things to sort out before you order.
First, forward controls. The listing states plainly that it does not fit bikes with a forward control kit. If you have moved your pegs forward, this bar wants the same space and you need a different solution.
Second, the hardware. This is the clearest example of the problem covered earlier in this guide. The listing says hardware is included. Owners say otherwise: "The only issue I had with installation is that the hardware is incomplete. It came with the 3 bolts and 1 washer." And another: "May need some new bolts for the OEM bolts and nuts. Ones shipped were not useful."
Buy grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers first. Eight dollars, and it turns this into a fifteen minute job.
What owners say: “Bought this for my 2005 HD Softail Night Train. Holes lined up easy enough. Fits great. Looks good. - Mustang Mom”
- Triple plated chrome - copper, then nickel, then chrome
- Wide Softail FL fitment 2000-2017 including Fat Boy, Deluxe, Slim and Heritage
- 1-1/4 in (32 mm) tubing
- Sized to keep a fall off the engine cases
- Confirmed on 2003 and 2005 Night Trains by owners
- Proper triple plating rather than a flash chrome coat
- Broad Softail coverage in one part number
- Owners report the holes lining up first time
- Solid, well-built feel by owner accounts
- Hardware pack repeatedly incomplete despite the listing claim
- Does NOT fit bikes with forward control kits
- No instruction sheet in the box
- Twice the price of the Sportster guard
- Only 128 ratings
TCMT Mustache Engine Guard Bar for Softail FL 2000-2017
Short mustache-style bar, 1-1/4 in (32 mm) iron tubing. Direct replacement for OEM 49140-05. Listing states NO instructions and NO mounting hardware included.
Fits 2000-2017 FL Softail models: Heritage, Fat Boy, Deluxe, Slim. Narrower profile than a full wraparound guard. Frame clutch cable bracket may foul the top mount and need a spacer.
The narrow option. A mustache bar hugs the engine rather than wrapping around it, which means it does not stick out into the next parking space and it keeps the bike's lines cleaner.
A 2014 Fat Boy owner sums up the appeal: "Item fits perfect on a 2014 Fat Boy. Doesn't stick out too wide like others I've seen. Flat black looks great."
It is a direct replacement for the factory part 49140-05, so on the right bike it goes exactly where Harley put one.
The most sobering review on any product in this guide comes from a Fat Boy owner who hit a deer at 40 mph on the Fourth of July. He reports fork and windshield damage. That is the honest boundary of what any crash bar does: it is built for the driveway, not for wildlife at speed.
Three practical points.
The listing states no instructions and no mounting hardware are included, which at least is honest. In practice some bolts do turn up, and owners report the pack being short: bolts with no nuts, one washer where several were needed. One four-star review is four stars purely because of the hardware.
The frame clutch cable bracket gets in the way of the top mount. An owner: "Clutch cable bracket on frame in the way. Need to space at top mount. Easy fix." Five minutes if you find it before you torque everything.
And understand the trade. Less tube means less protection and, more practically, far less horizontal bar to clamp a highway peg onto. If pegs are part of the plan, buy a full wraparound guard instead.
What owners say: “Item fits perfect on a 2014 Fat Boy. Doesn't stick out too wide like others I've seen. Flat black looks great. - Brian Fields”
- Narrow mustache profile that does not stick out into a parking space
- Direct replacement for OEM part 49140-05
- 1-1/4 in (32 mm) iron tubing
- Fits 2000-2017 FL Softail: Heritage, Fat Boy, Deluxe, Slim
- 560 ratings at 4.6
- Listing is honest that no hardware or instructions are supplied
- Cleanest looking guard here
- Direct OEM part replacement
- Well rated at 4.6 from 560 ratings
- Does not widen the bike
- Little horizontal tube for highway pegs
- No instructions and no hardware, per the listing itself
- Hardware that does arrive is short on nuts and washers
- Clutch cable bracket fouls the top mount and needs a spacer
- Less protection than a full wraparound
Harley highway pegs
Three clamp-on kits, all sized for 1-1/4 inch bars. The two P-clamp kits hold; the U-clamp one is here as the cheap option with its problems stated.
FOVPLUE 1.25 in Highway Foot Pegs with P-Clamps
Pair of adjustable highway pegs with P-clamp mounts for 1-1/4 in (32 mm) tubing. Zinc alloy clamp, aluminium peg. All installation hardware included.
For 1-1/4 in (32 mm) engine guards ONLY. Harley Touring, Softail, Dyna, Sportster, CVO, Electra Glide, Road King, plus metric cruisers with 32 mm bars. DOES NOT fit chopped engine guards or bars larger than 1.25 in.
The P-clamp design is what separates this from the cheap kits: a closed ring that bolts tight around the tube rather than an open U hooked over it. That is the difference between a peg that stays put and one you spend the ride nudging back into place.
A Road King owner: "Definitely NOT lightweight junk, these are heavyweight pieces that are perfect for my Harley-Davidson Road King." Another, briefly: "A must have for long rides."
On the adjustability, which matters more than people expect: "These are awesome. Love the fit and adjustability of these." The clamp locks the peg at whatever angle suits your leg, and getting that angle right is the difference between a peg you use and one you ignore.
Zinc alloy clamp body with an aluminium peg to keep the weight down, and all the mounting hardware is in the box.
The one thing that goes wrong is diameter, and it is entirely avoidable. A buyer: "I just got my bike back and tried to put them on but they are too small, they won't fit on my bar." His guard is bigger than 1.25 inches. Measure your tubing before ordering - and if you are buying a bar and pegs together, order 1.25 inch tubing so this problem never arises.
Two minor gripes from owners: the spring clips that hold the pegs in the folded position are weak, and the chrome is described as functional rather than show quality.
What owners say: “Definitely NOT lightweight junk, these are heavyweight pieces that are perfect for my Harley-Davidson Road King. - Mason”
- P-clamp mount - a closed ring bolted around the tube, not an open U
- Locks the peg at any angle to suit your leg reach
- Zinc alloy clamp with an aluminium peg to save weight
- All installation hardware included
- Fits Harley Touring, Softail, Dyna and Sportster with 32 mm bars
- The clamp type that actually holds
- Adjustable angle, which decides whether you use the pegs
- Described by owners as heavyweight rather than flimsy
- Hardware included
- 1-1/4 in bars ONLY - will not close on a bigger guard
- Spring clips holding the pegs stowed are weak
- Chrome is functional rather than show quality
- Does not fit chopped engine guards
HY-SPEED Highway Pegs for 1.25 in Engine Guards, 360 Degree Adjustable
Pair of highway pegs with an anti-slip clamp that rotates 360 degrees and locks. Reversible mount for short or tall riders. Non-slip carved rubber peg surface. Allen wrenches included.
For all models with 1-1/4 in (32 mm) engine guards, short angled style. Compatible with Softail, Sportster, Electra Glide, Road Glide, Road King and Street Glide.
Six dollars cheaper than the other P-clamp kit and with the one feature that most matters for comfort: a reversible mount, so a shorter rider can pull the pegs in toward the bike and a taller one can push them forward.
That is not a gimmick. A peg in the wrong place for your leg length is a peg you never use, and most kits give you one position and a prayer.
The clamp rotates a full 360 degrees and locks at any angle, and the design is specifically aimed at stopping the mount rotating on the bar under load - which, as covered in the highway peg section above, is the standard failure of cheap kits.
Owner reports are short but consistent: "Fits great." "Work well on my Harley." "They work and fit perfectly!"
The peg surface is carved rubber rather than smooth metal, and the joint is thickened where the leverage goes.
Two honest limits. One set arrived badly scuffed out of the box - "They were scuffed up really bad" - which is a packaging problem rather than a design one, but worth inspecting on arrival. And a 2003 Electra Glide owner found the fit very snug and wanted longer clamp bolts to get a proper grip.
Only 48 ratings, so the evidence base is thinner than the alternative. But for anyone whose leg length is not average, the reversible mount is worth the trade.
What owners say: “They work and fit perfectly!! - Kenny Reyes”
- Reversible mount so short riders pull in and tall riders reach forward
- Clamp rotates 360 degrees and locks at the chosen angle
- Anti-slip clamp design aimed at stopping rotation under load
- Non-slip carved rubber peg surface, thickened at the joint
- Allen wrenches included
- Cheaper than the comparable P-clamp kit
- Reversible mount solves the leg-reach problem most kits ignore
- Full 360 degree adjustment
- Anti-slip clamp design
- Cheaper than the alternative P-clamp kit
- One set arrived badly scuffed
- Very snug on a 2003 Electra Glide bar, clamp bolts could be longer
- Only 48 ratings
- 1-1/4 in short angled guards only
ApplianPar Foot Pegs with U-Clamps, 1 in to 1.25 in
Pair of billet aluminium foot pegs on U-clamp mounts spanning 1 in to 1-1/4 in tubing. Rubber peg insert.
For Harley Softail, Touring, Sportster, Sport Glide, FXRT and others with 1 in to 1-1/4 in front engine guards. The 1 in to 1.25 in span makes it the option for older or thinner bars.
Included as the cheap option, and included honestly, because the reviews explain exactly what twenty-two dollars buys you.
The one genuine advantage is the span. The U-clamp opens from 1 inch to 1-1/4 inch, which makes this the answer if your guard is an older or thinner 1 inch tube that a fixed 32 mm P-clamp will not grip. Billet aluminium body with a rubber insert, sold as a pair.
Now the problem, and it is the U-clamp itself. An owner: "They are still janky! Been on my bike for a while and I was hoping that as I rode they would settle into place because they rattle terribly."
Another reports the clamps slipping and rotating under load, so the peg has to be pushed back into position repeatedly. A third found it hard to clamp tight on a 1.25 inch bar without shorter bolts and bending the bracket.
The mechanism is simple. A U-clamp is an open hook with a plate across it, so all the clamping force runs through two bolts at one point. A P-clamp is a closed ring that grips the whole circumference. Under a boot on a bumpy road, the U gives.
The maths. This is $23 and the P-clamp kits are $39 and $45. If your bar is 1.25 inch, spend the extra sixteen dollars. If your bar is 1 inch and nothing else fits, buy this, expect to re-tighten it, and accept some rattle.
At 3.6 stars from 30 ratings this is the lowest rated product in the guide, and that rating is earned.
What owners say: “They are still janky! Been on my bike for a while and I was hoping that as I rode they would settle into place because they rattle terribly. - Gail”
- U-clamp spans 1 in to 1-1/4 in, so it fits older thinner bars
- Billet aluminium body with a rubber peg insert
- Cheapest peg kit here
- Sold as a pair
- Fits Softail, Touring, Sportster, Sport Glide and FXRT
- The only option in this guide for a 1 in guard
- The only kit here that fits a 1 inch bar
- Cheapest by a clear margin
- Billet aluminium rather than cast
- Simple to fit
- U-clamps slip and rotate under load - owners re-position them constantly
- Rattle badly once fitted
- Hard to clamp tight on a 1.25 in bar without modification
- Rubber pads described as flimsy
- Lowest rated product in this guide at 3.6
Covers, bags and hardware
The rubber sliders that take the first hit so your chrome does not, a waterproof bar bag, and a stainless fastener set for the engine covers you will be working around.
GZYF Rubber Crash Bar Covers for 1.25 in Engine Guards, Pair
High density rubber sliders that slide over the tubing and take the first impact. For 31 mm to 33 mm (1-1/4 in) bars. Textured non-slip surface, weather resistant. No tools or drilling.
Universal for Harley Sportster, Touring, Softail and Dyna plus Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki and Suzuki cruisers with 32 mm highway bars. 31 mm to 33 mm ONLY - 1.5 in guards are excluded.
Seventeen dollars to stop your new chrome getting scraped the first time the bike goes over. The rubber compresses on impact and takes the damage instead of the tubing.
They also give the bar a grippier surface, which matters if you rest a boot on it.
An owner: "Fit great and are very grippy, great quality and super easy to install if you got some vice grips or pliers." Another: "I am very satisfied with this product. They were fairly easy to put on. Took a little time and patience but worth it."
Note the qualifier in both of those. The rubber is stiff, and sliding it over a curved bar takes force. The seller's own tip is to soak them in hot water first to soften them, which owners confirm works. Have pliers or vice grips to hand.
Two limits, both about size. They fit 31 to 33 mm bars only, so a 1.5 inch guard is out - one more reason to buy 1.25 inch tubing in the first place. And they cover a section of the bar rather than the whole thing, so choose where you place them: the outermost point of the curve is what hits the ground.
Cheap enough that buying a pair with the guard is the obvious move rather than a decision.
What owners say: “Fit great and are very grippy, great quality and super easy to install if you got some vice grips or pliers. - Gabriel MacLean”
- High density rubber that compresses on impact instead of the chrome
- Sized for 31 mm to 33 mm (1-1/4 in) bars
- Textured non-slip surface, useful if you rest a boot on the bar
- Slide-on fitting, no tools or drilling needed
- Weather resistant compound
- Protects the protection for seventeen dollars
- Grippy surface for resting a boot
- No drilling or permanent modification
- Universal across cruiser brands with 32 mm bars
- Rubber is stiff - needs pliers or the hot water soak
- Only fits 31 to 33 mm bars, so 1.5 in guards are out
- Covers a section, not the whole bar - placement matters
Rhinowalk 6L Waterproof Crash Bar Bag
6 litre waterproof PVC-coated polyester with seamless welding. Four-point strap system with cam buckles. Shoulder strap included so it converts off the bike.
Straps to a crash bar, pannier rack or tank - four mounting configurations. Designed primarily for adventure bike crash bars, so check the strap span against a wide Harley touring guard.
The things you want reachable without opening a saddlebag: phone, wallet, glasses, a rain layer. Six litres, strapped to the guard, waterproof.
The construction is the reason it rates 4.7. PVC-coated polyester with seamlessly welded seams rather than stitched, which is what keeps water out at the joins rather than just through the fabric.
A thousand-mile test from an owner: "Just took a 1000 mile adventure ride, bags worked perfect. Also using the rear saddle bags. Dirt, water, snow, no problems."
The four-point strap system uses cam buckles rather than plain webbing, which is the detail that stops it working loose over a few hundred miles of bumps. Another owner: "The bags attached very easily to the crash bars and they look great on my bike."
Two honest caveats.
It is designed for adventure bike crash bars, which are generally narrower tube arrangements than a wide Harley touring guard. Measure the strap span against your bar before ordering.
And it is a generic product sold under several brand names, which one owner raises about the price: "I like it a lot, it's good quality, has plenty of tie downs and clips. Looks good. Price though, for a generic no-name company." Fair point. It is well made and it is not exclusive.
The shoulder strap is a genuinely useful extra - it means the bag comes off the bike and goes with you rather than being emptied into your pockets.
What owners say: “Just took a 1000 mile adventure ride, bags worked perfect. Also using the rear saddle bags. Dirt water snow no problems. - scott vanderlan”
- 6 litres of waterproof PVC-coated polyester with welded seams
- Four-point strap system with cam buckles that hold tension over bumps
- Four mounting configurations: crash bar, pannier rack, tank
- Shoulder strap included so it converts to a crossbody bag
- Proven over a 1000 mile ride in dirt, water and snow
- 4.7 rating from 115 ratings
- Genuinely waterproof, with welded rather than stitched seams
- Cam buckles stop the straps loosening
- Comes off the bike as a shoulder bag
- Highest rated accessory in this guide
- Designed for adventure bike bars - check the strap span on a wide Harley guard
- Generic product sold under several brand names
- Priced above what a no-name bag would suggest
Stainless Engine Cover Bolt Kit for Harley Touring 2007-2016
151 stainless fasteners in 10 labelled packs: cam cover 20, primary 26, derby 10, transmission top 12, sensors 5, transmission side 12, rocker box. 304 stainless, knurled heads.
Fits Harley Touring Electra Glide, Street Glide, Road Glide, Road King and CVO 2007-2016. NOTE: this is an ENGINE COVER bolt kit, not crash bar mounting hardware.
Be clear about what this is, because the name can mislead. This is not the mounting hardware for your crash bar. It is a full stainless fastener set for the engine covers - cam, primary, derby, transmission and rocker box - on a 2007-2016 Touring bike.
It is here for a practical reason. Fitting a crash bar puts you on your knees next to exactly those covers, and on a bike more than a few years old the plated OEM bolts around the primary and derby are usually the rustiest fasteners on the motorcycle. If you are down there anyway, this is the moment.
304 stainless rather than plated steel, so they do not rust, and the threads are described as smooth rather than prone to stripping. The heads are knurled to match the OEM look, and the kit arrives in ten labelled packs so you know which bolt belongs where.
An owner on that: "Fasteners work well, plus packing is outstanding, all fasteners are well marked for where each fastener goes on the engine."
Two things to set expectations on.
The finish is plain stainless, not polished. Two of the four visible reviewers say so: "Great set. Not polished as in description. I'm ok with that." And: "Nicely packaged stainless but not polished to a shine." If you want mirror chrome, this is not it.
And there are only five ratings, so there is no long-term durability record. What you can rely on is the material: 304 stainless will not rust, which is the whole point of the purchase.
For the crash bar itself, you still want grade 8 bolts, nuts and washers from a hardware store - about eight dollars, and covered in the hardware section above.
What owners say: “Fasteners work well plus packing is outstanding, all fasteners are well marked for where each fastener goes on engine. - Amazon Customer”
- 151 stainless fasteners in 10 labelled packs by location
- 304 stainless, so no rust on primary, derby or cam cover bolts
- Knurled heads to match the OEM appearance
- Covers cam cover, primary, derby, transmission top and side, sensors, rocker box
- Fits Touring models 2007-2016
- Threads described as smooth and not prone to stripping
- Replaces the rustiest fasteners on an older Touring bike
- Labelled by location so nothing goes in the wrong hole
- 304 stainless will not corrode
- Sensible thing to do while you are already on the floor
- NOT crash bar mounting hardware - buy grade 8 fasteners separately for that
- Plain stainless, not polished as the listing implies
- Only 5 ratings, no durability record
- 2007-2016 Touring only
Harley Crash Bars and Engine Guards - FAQs
What is the best engine guard for Harley Davidson bikes?
Are crash bars worth it on a Harley?
What size tubing do Harley crash bars use?
Do crash bars come with mounting hardware?
How do you install a Harley engine guard?
Do highway pegs come loose?
The short version
- Worth it for the drop you will actually have. Excellent below walking pace, limited above it.
- Read the exclusion line, not the year range. Touring guards have several recent model years cut out.
- Buy 1-1/4 inch tubing unless you have checked that your pegs and covers exist in 1.5 inch.
- Buy grade 8 fasteners separately. Three of four guards here shipped short on hardware.
- Start every bolt by hand before torquing anything, and check master cylinder and cable bracket clearance first.
- P-clamp highway pegs, not U-clamp. Twenty dollars decides whether they rattle.
- Re-check the bolts at 100 miles. It is a long lever on two frame fasteners.
Whichever guard you choose: check the exclusion line for your model year, buy 1-1/4 inch tubing so the pegs and covers fit, pick up grade 8 fasteners before you start, and re-check the bolts at 100 miles.
