Harley Davidson handlebars are the single biggest change you can make to how the bike feels to ride, and the cheapest one that actually alters your riding position rather than just the look. Choosing handlebars for Harley Davidson models is mostly a question of three measurements and one expensive side effect.
Where the grips sit decides three things at once: how far you lean forward, how much weight goes through your wrists, and how much wind hits your chest at speed. Riders swap bars because their shoulders ache after an hour, because their arms are stretched out on a stock Sportster, or because they want the bike to sit differently. All three are the same fix.
The part nobody tells you at the point of sale
Buying the bar is the easy half. The expensive half is what the bar does to everything attached to it: the throttle and clutch cables, the front brake line, and the wiring loom running to your switch housings. Go tall enough and none of them reach.
One owner fitting 16 inch apes describes the reality: the brake line, the throttle, the clutch and every wiring harness had to be extended, and it cost him a full day. Another owner of the same bar pulled his wiring through and needed nothing else. The difference is the bike, not the bar.
What you will get from this guide
- Where the cable threshold actually is, and why width and pullback matter as much as rise.
- The three wiring types - pre-drilled, dimpled and undocumented - and which one generates the one-star reviews.
- The 1 inch against 1.25 inch trap, including the taper that confuses almost everybody.
- When risers are the right answer instead of new bars, and the bolt pattern that decides fitment.
- Bar height and the law, which exactly one listing in this research mentions.
- 10 products compared - bars, risers, cable kits and the wiring harness - every price, rating and owner quote checked on the product page.
- Pre-drilled wiring holes, stated on the listing
- 12 in end rise with 5.5 in pullback
- 1-1/4 in diameter, 3.5 in base width for standard risers
- 16 in rise gangster style ape hanger, 1-1/4 in diameter
- Explicitly cleared for throttle-by-wire models
- Indentation on the right side for brake pump clearance
- 8 in rise, the height where stock lines are often still long enough
- 1 in diameter, so stock risers and controls fit directly
- Dimpled for wiring clearance at the controls
- 36.5 in wide with 16.5 in pullback, a genuinely relaxed position
- 1-1/4 in clamp area tapering to 1 in so stock controls fit
- Dimpled and notched for throttle-by-wire
- 4 in rise with roughly 1-1/2 in of pullback
- CNC one-piece 6061-T6 aluminium
- Knurled inner clamp surface so the bar cannot rotate
- 2 in of rise on top of your existing risers
- 7075 aviation grade aluminium
- Supplied with bolts, nuts and washers
- Three parts in one kit: clutch, throttle and idle, front brake line
- Sized for 16-18 in bars, with a 12-14 in option
- PTFE inner tube, stainless braid, PVC outer cover
- 52 in, which is 6.5 in longer than stock
- Sized for 12-14 in bars, confirmed by an owner on 14 in apes
- PTFE inner tube with polished stainless braid
- Plug and play into stock connectors, no cutting or splicing
- Sold in 8, 12, 14 and 16 in lengths to match your rise
- Colour coded wires with male and female pins
- Riser plus one-piece top clamp, cleaner than the stock arrangement
- 7075 aerospace grade aluminium, anodised
- 2 in tall, for 1 in clamping area
The one bar here that states its wiring specification plainly - pre-drilled, with through-holes cut for internal routing - and 12 inches of rise is the height where stock cables often still reach. A 1999 Dyna owner fitted it with no line changes at all. Note it ships without mounting bolts.
How much rise do you actually want?
Rise is measured from the clamping area to the grip, and it is the number every bar is sold by. It is also only one of three numbers that matter.
| Number | What it changes |
|---|---|
| Rise | How high your hands sit. Above about 12 in your arms come up and the wind hits your chest. |
| Pullback | How far back the grips come toward you. This is what fixes a stretched-out riding position. |
| Width | Leverage and lane presence. A 36 in beach bar feels completely different from a 31 in T-bar. |
The practical way to choose
Sit on the bike and have somebody hold a broom handle where you want your hands. Measure from the top of your risers up to it, and back from the riser centre. Those two numbers are your rise and your pullback, and they will usually surprise you.
An owner of 12 inch T-bars, on a 1999 Dyna Low Rider: "Very happy with the 12 inch bars. I'm 5'11 and probably could have gone taller." That is the common experience - people undershoot the first time.
Rise is not the whole story for cables
Here is the finding that shapes the rest of this guide. A 3.5 inch rise beach bar in this comparison still forced its owner to buy a longer brake line, because it is 36.5 inches wide with 16.5 inches of pullback. The cables have to go out and back, not just up.
So do not assume a low bar is a bolt-on. Measure the total path the cable has to travel, not the height on the box.
Will you need longer cables and brake lines?
This is the question that decides whether your handlebar swap costs $90 or $290, and the honest answer is that it depends on your bike rather than on a fixed number.
What the owner reports actually show
- 8 inch mini apes: one 1991 FXR owner reused everything - "Stock lines, wires, and cables all worked fine." A 2003 Sportster XL owner on the same bar needed a full extension kit for brake line, clutch cable and wiring.
- 12 inch T-bars: "Fit my 1999 Dyna Low Rider perfectly, didn't need to extend any lines."
- 16 inch apes: one owner extended everything, a full day of work. Another pulled his wiring through and was done.
- 3.5 inch beach bar: longer brake line required, because of width and pullback rather than height.
The working rule
Up to about 12 inches of rise, stock lines usually still reach. From 14 inches up, budget for a kit. But treat that as a starting point rather than a promise, because a 1991 FXR and a 2003 Sportster gave opposite answers on the same 8 inch bar.
How to check before you buy
- Turn the bars fully to one lock, then the other, with the bike stationary.
- Look for any cable or line that has gone tight, or that is pulling on its mount.
- Now add your planned rise and pullback to that path in your head. If it is already tight at full lock, it will not reach.
- The front brake line is almost always the first to run out, because it takes the longest route.
What a kit costs
A three-piece kit - clutch cable, throttle and idle cable, front brake line - runs about $136 and is sold sized for a bar height band, typically 12 to 14 inches or 16 to 18 inches. A brake line on its own is around $56. Note that kits are sized by bar rise plus any risers you have added, and buyers have to work that out themselves rather than being told.
Two things owners report on aftermarket cables: one snapped after three months, and another describes the action as "looser and less crisp than factory". Worth knowing before you choose the cheapest kit.
Wiring: the three types of bar, and which one causes trouble
Your switch housings have wires running out of them, and those wires either go inside the bar or along the outside of it. What the bar does about that is a specification you should check before ordering, and most listings bury it.
| Type | What it means | Verdict |
|---|---|---|
| Pre-drilled | Through-holes already cut for internal routing | Easiest. Wires go inside, nothing shows. |
| Dimpled | Flats pressed into the bar so external wires clear the controls | Fine, but the wiring is visible. |
| Neither | A plain tube. You drill it or run wires outside | Extra work, and drilling a chromed bar is not fun. |
Where it goes wrong
The clearest failure in this whole research is a beach bar whose internal control tunnels are too tight or misaligned. Two separate one-star reviews say the same thing. One: "The hand control tunnels are STUPID! Making wiring near impossible! You should not have to fabricate your new handlebar."
Another owner of the same bar was more measured: "They were a little tricky to put on and get the wiring through." Same problem, calmer language.
And a subtlety worth knowing: a bar can have through-holes without dimples. One owner points out that if you then decide not to route internally, there is nowhere for the wires to sit against the controls.
The extension harness
If the bar is fine but the wires are simply too short, you do not have to splice anything. A plug-and-play CAN-bus extension harness plugs into the stock connectors and adds length in 8, 12, 14 or 16 inch versions, for around $28. The connectors are small enough to hide inside the bar.
One trap: the throttle-by-wire harness is a separate part and is not included. If your Harley has an electronic throttle, you need both.
1 inch or 1.25 inch: the taper that confuses everybody
Harley bars come in two clamping diameters and they are not interchangeable at the riser. A 1.25 inch bar will not go into a 1 inch riser, and no shim fixes that properly - you need a matching riser or top clamp.
The trap
Many fat bars are 1.25 inch through the centre clamping area and taper down to 1 inch at the ends, precisely so your standard controls and grips still slide on. One bar in this guide is exactly that.
So the question is not "is this a fat bar". The question is what diameter is the clamping area, because that is what has to match your riser.
What to check
- Measure the bar where your risers clamp it, not at the grips.
- Riser and top clamp kits are sold in matched 1 inch and 1.25 inch versions, and buyers order the wrong one. One owner in this research did exactly that.
- If you go from 1 inch to 1.25 inch bars, budget for a new riser or top clamp in the same order.
Harley handlebar risers: when they are the better answer
Sometimes you do not need new bars. If the bar shape suits you and you just want your hands two or four inches higher and slightly closer, risers do that for a fraction of the cost and with far less disruption to cables.
Two kinds
- Pullback risers replace your existing risers and add both height and pullback. A 4 inch riser typically brings the bar back about 1.5 inches as well.
- Riser extensions are spacers that sit on top of what you already have, adding 1 or 2 inches. Around $13 a pair.
The bolt pattern that decides everything
3.5 inches centre to centre is the recurring riser spacing on Harleys, and it is the number to check. One owner had to squeeze a T-bar closed slightly to line it up with the 3.5 inch holes on a 2012 Dyna.
Riser extensions also assume 1/2 inch mount bolts. An owner: "Mine were not, as they are metric. I replaced the bolts." And another had the supplied bolts seize and snap during installation.
Two real-world fitment notes
Pullback risers can foul the tank. On an Iron 883 an owner had to rotate his 180 degrees for tank clearance, and the same risers did not fit a 2025 Fat Boy at all.
And the advertised rise is not what you get. One owner measured his 4 inch pullback risers as about "2 inches taller than stock" once the pullback was factored in, and described the comfort gain honestly as about five percent.
Finally, remember that added rise loads the cables the same way a taller bar does. An owner warns that it can bind cables and wiring at full lock if lengths are not checked first.
Harley Davidson handlebars by style, and who each one suits
Harley Davidson ape hangers
The classic tall bar, from about 10 inches up to 16 and beyond. Hands above shoulder height, arms up, chest into the wind. Genuinely comfortable on a cruiser at moderate speed and genuinely tiring on a long highway run. Above 14 inches, plan on a full cable and line kit.
Mini apes
Roughly 8 to 10 inches. The compromise most riders actually want: noticeably taller and more relaxed than stock without the wind load or the cable bill. This is where a stock-line install is still plausible, though not guaranteed.
T-bars
A straight riser section with a short crossbar, typically 12 inches of rise with around 5 inches of pullback. Narrower than a beach bar, cleaner looking, and popular on Softails and Dynas. The T-bar in this guide is 31 inches wide against the beach bar's 36.5.
Beach bars
Wide and heavily pulled back, low rise. The one here is 36.5 inches wide with 16.5 inches of pullback and only 3.5 inches of rise. Extremely relaxed hand position, lots of leverage, and - as covered above - a longer brake line even though it is a low bar.
Drag bars
Flat, narrow, minimal rise. Aggressive forward lean, best on shorter rides and lighter bikes. The one style where a listing in this research actually mentions height laws.
Are Harley Davidson ape hangers legal?
It depends where you ride, and this is the one thing almost no seller tells you.
Across the ten products researched for this guide, exactly one listing mentions it - a drag bar page which states that handlebar height is regulated in many states and tells buyers to check state or local law before installation. Not one ape hanger listing mentions height laws at all, including a 16 inch bar.
What the laws generally do
Most US states that regulate bar height do it one of two ways: a limit relative to your shoulder height when seated, or a limit relative to the seat height. The exact figure and the method vary state by state, some states have no limit at all, and the rules change.
Because of that, the only responsible advice is: check your own state's current requirement before you order a tall bar, and remember it applies wherever you ride, not just where you registered the bike. A bar that is legal at home can be a ticket two states over.
No reviewer in this research reported an inspection or legal problem, but absence of complaints in ten product pages is not evidence that the law does not apply to you.
Mistakes that turn a $90 bar into a $400 job
- Judging cable needs by rise alone. A 3.5 inch beach bar needed a longer brake line because of width and pullback.
- Not checking full lock before ordering. If a line is tight now, it will not reach after.
- Measuring the bar diameter at the grips instead of at the riser clamp, where it actually matters.
- Ordering a riser or clamp in the wrong diameter. They come in matched 1 and 1.25 inch versions.
- Assuming a 3.5 inch riser bolt pattern. Check yours.
- Forgetting the throttle-by-wire harness when buying a wiring extension. It is sold separately.
- Buying a cable kit sized for the bar but not for the risers. Kit length has to account for both.
- Assuming bolts are included. One bar in this guide ships without mounting bolts.
- Assuming riser extension bolts are 1/2 inch. Metric bikes need different hardware.
- Buying a tall bar without checking your state's height law. Almost no listing will warn you.
The best Harley handlebars, risers and the parts that go with them
Ten products, grouped by what they do. A bar on its own is rarely the whole purchase, so the risers, cable kits and the wiring harness are here too. Every price, rating and owner quote was checked on the product page.
Handlebars: ape hangers, T-bars, beach bars and mini apes
Four shapes covering the range from a 3.5 inch beach bar to 16 inch apes. Check the clamping diameter and the wiring type on each one before you order, because those two specifications decide how the install goes.
Wsays 12 in T-Bar Handlebar, 1-1/4 in, Pre-Drilled
T-bar. 12 in end rise, 5.5 in pullback, 31 in wide, 3.5 in base width. 1-1/4 in diameter. PRE-DRILLED wiring holes. Alloy steel, gloss black.
Fits Sportster 883, 1000, 1100, 1200, Softail Heritage and Touring Road King. Base width 3.5 in for standard riser spacing. Sold as bar only, NO mounting bolts included.
The one bar here that states its wiring specification plainly: pre-drilled, with through-holes cut for internal routing. After reading the wiring complaints on the other bars in this guide, that is worth paying for.
Twelve inches of rise with 5.5 inches of pullback puts it right at the point where stock lines often still reach. A 1999 Dyna Low Rider owner: "Very happy with the 12 inch bars! Fit my 1999 Dyna Low Rider perfectly, didn't need to extend any lines. Very sturdy."
Another on the feel: "Very heavy duty durable feeling bars compared to other ones I bought. I got the 12 inch, I'm 5'11 and probably could have gone taller." That is the common experience with a first bar swap.
Three practical notes. No mounting bolts are included - one owner reused his, which were bent. The base width needed a slight squeeze to line up with the 3.5 inch riser holes on a 2012 Dyna. And although it has through-holes, it has no dimples, so if you decide not to route internally there is nowhere for the wires to sit against the controls.
At 31 inches it is noticeably narrower than a beach bar, which is the point: cleaner lines, less lane presence, and less strain on the cables.
What owners say: “Very happy with the 12 inch bars! Fit my 1999 Dyna Low Rider perfectly, didn't need to extend any lines. Very sturdy. - Ryan”
- Pre-drilled wiring holes, stated on the listing
- 12 in end rise with 5.5 in pullback
- 1-1/4 in diameter, 3.5 in base width for standard risers
- 31 in overall width, narrower than a beach bar
- Alloy steel, powder coated, salt spray tested 48 hours
- Owners report stock lines reaching at this height
- The only bar here with a stated pre-drilled wiring spec
- 12 in is the height where stock lines often still work
- Heavy duty feel by owner accounts
- Confirmed bolt-on on a 1999 Dyna
- No mounting bolts in the box
- Base width may need squeezing to fit 3.5 in riser holes
- Through-holes but no dimples, so external routing is awkward
- Only 64 ratings
Green-L 16 in Rise Ape Hanger Handlebars, 1-1/4 in
Ape hanger. 16 in rise, 35 in overall width, 1-1/4 in diameter. Iron, 10.4 lb. Indentation on the right side only for brake pump clearance.
Fits all Harley Softail FLST, FXST, Sportster XL883 and XL1200, INCLUDING throttle-by-wire models. NOT suitable for stock or modified hydraulic clutch bikes. Listing warns different cables and brake lines may be needed.
The tall bar, and the best-rated of the four here. Sixteen inches of rise puts your hands above shoulder height, which is either exactly what you want or an hour of highway you will not enjoy.
The reviews split cleanly on the install rather than on the bar. One owner: "Great bars. Chrome was nice and was easy to run wires internally. Put on a 03 Heritage." A Road King Classic owner: "Installed these 16 inch Gangster Ape handlebars on my 2005 Road King Classic, and I couldn't be happier. The style, stance, and quality are all there."
And the other side, from an owner who noted the bars look identical to a well-known branded style: at 16 inches the brake line, throttle, clutch and every wiring harness had to be extended. A full day of work.
That is the honest expectation at this height. Budget the cable kit and the brake line in the same order.
Two specification details that matter. It is explicitly cleared for throttle-by-wire models, which is rare and useful. And it is explicitly not suitable for hydraulic clutch setups, stock or aftermarket, which is the kind of exclusion that ruins a Saturday if you miss it.
The listing does not say whether the bar is pre-drilled or dimpled, so internal routing is trial and error. Owners report managing it, but you are finding out after the box arrives.
What owners say: “Installed these 16 inch Gangster Ape handlebars on my 2005 Harley-Davidson Road King Classic, and I couldn't be happier. The style, stance, and quality are all there. - Kevin Brackett”
- 16 in rise gangster style ape hanger, 1-1/4 in diameter
- Explicitly cleared for throttle-by-wire models
- Indentation on the right side for brake pump clearance
- Iron construction, 10.4 lb, 35 in overall width
- Listing itself warns different cables and brake lines may be needed
- Best rated bar in this guide at 4.6 from 219 ratings
- Highest rated bar here
- Cleared for throttle-by-wire, which many listings do not state
- Owners praise the chrome and the stance
- At 16 in expect to extend brake line, cables and all wiring
- NOT for hydraulic clutch bikes, stock or aftermarket
- No pre-drilled or dimpled specification given
- Internal wiring is trial and error
TC Bros 8 in Narrow Mini Apes, 1 in, Dimpled
Mini ape. 8 in rise, 1 in diameter, 3.5 in riser spacing. DIMPLED version for wiring clearance. Chrome, alloy steel. Also sold smooth.
1 in narrow mini apes for custom applications. No formal fitment line on the listing. Owners report FXR and Sportster XL installs.
The compromise most riders actually want. Eight inches is noticeably taller and more relaxed than stock without the wind load of a real ape, and it is the height where a stock-line install is still plausible.
Plausible, not guaranteed, and this listing shows exactly why. A 1991 FXR owner: "Swapped my old buckhorn bars on my 91 FXR, they're about as tall, but flatter. Stock lines, wires, and cables all worked fine, and they're very solid."
A 2003 Sportster XL owner on the same bar needed a full extension kit for the brake line, clutch cable and wiring.
Same 8 inch bar, opposite outcomes. That is the single most useful data point in this guide, and it is why the advice throughout is to check your own bike at full lock rather than trust a rule.
This is the dimpled version, sold alongside a smooth one. The dimples are flats pressed into the bar so external wires clear the controls, which is the middle option between pre-drilled and a plain tube.
Narrow profile, 1 inch diameter so stock controls and risers fit directly, and 3.5 inch riser spacing.
The reservation is price. A hundred dollars is high for a plain 1 inch bar against generic listings, and there are only 32 ratings. You are paying for a known brand and the dimpling.
What owners say: “Swapped my old buckhorn bars on my 91 FXR. Stock lines, wires, and cables all worked fine, and they're very solid. - Amazon Customer”
- 8 in rise, the height where stock lines are often still long enough
- 1 in diameter, so stock risers and controls fit directly
- Dimpled for wiring clearance at the controls
- 3.5 in riser spacing
- Narrow mini ape profile
- Also available in a smooth non-dimpled version
- The most usable height for a first bar swap
- Dimpled version takes the guesswork out of wiring
- 1 in diameter means no new riser needed
- Owner confirmed as a full bolt-on on an FXR
- Even at 8 in one Sportster owner needed a full cable kit
- No formal fitment line on the listing
- Expensive for a plain 1 in bar
- Only 32 ratings
Custom Chrome CCI Beach Bar, 3.5 in Rise, 16.5 in Pullback
Beach bar. 3.5 in rise, 36.5 in wide, 16.5 in pullback. 1-1/4 in centre clamp TAPERING TO 1 in at the ends so stock controls fit. Dimpled and notched for throttle-by-wire.
Fits most Sportster XL, Softail, Dyna and Road King FLHR. The taper means standard 1 in controls and grips still slide on. Dimpled and notched for throttle-by-wire applications.
Included because it demonstrates two of the most important points in this guide, and because the low rating deserves an explanation rather than a dismissal.
Point one: the taper. This bar is 1-1/4 inch through the centre clamping section and tapers to 1 inch at the ends, specifically so standard controls and grips still fit. That is the detail that confuses people about fat bars, and this listing states it plainly.
Point two: rise is not what stretches cables. At only 3.5 inches of rise this is a low bar, and it still forced a longer brake line on two owners, because it is 36.5 inches wide with 16.5 inches of pullback. One: "They are great but I've had 6 bikes that I've put beach bars on, so comfortable, they're wide, had to change brake line."
The riding position is genuinely relaxed - wide, pulled well back, hands low and close.
Now the 3.4 rating, which comes almost entirely from one problem. The internal control tunnels are too tight or misaligned, and two separate one-star reviews say so. The blunter one: "The hand control tunnels are STUPID! Making wiring near impossible! You should not have to fabricate your new handlebar." A calmer owner on a 2016 Road King: "They were a little tricky to put on and get the wiring through."
A third owner had the throttle sleeve stick on the right end until he sanded the tube down.
Buy it for the shape and the taper if you are comfortable doing some fettling. Do not buy it expecting a clean wiring job.
What owners say: “I absolutely agree. The hand control tunnels are STUPID! Making wiring near impossible! You should not have to fabricate your new handlebar. - Amazon Customer”
- 36.5 in wide with 16.5 in pullback, a genuinely relaxed position
- 1-1/4 in clamp area tapering to 1 in so stock controls fit
- Dimpled and notched for throttle-by-wire
- Only 3.5 in rise, low hand position
- Iron, black finish
- Fits Sportster XL, Softail, Dyna and Road King
- The taper lets you run a fat bar with stock controls
- Very relaxed hand position and lots of leverage
- Notched for throttle-by-wire
- Cheapest bar here
- Internal control tunnels are too tight - two one-star reviews on wiring
- Throttle sleeve stuck until an owner sanded the tube
- Still needs a longer brake line despite the low rise
- Only 15 ratings and a 3.4 average
Harley handlebar risers
The cheaper route to a higher, closer bar. Check your riser bolt spacing and bolt size first, and remember that added rise loads the cables exactly like a taller bar does.
Sresk 4 in Pullback Handlebar Risers, 1 in
Pullback risers. 4 in rise giving roughly 1-1/2 in of pullback. CNC one-piece 6061-T6 aluminium, knurled inner clamp, 1/2 in mount bolts.
For 1 in handlebars on Harley Dyna and Softail plus Honda, Kawasaki Vulcan and Yamaha. Some models may need minor drilling. Listing claims stock lines work with simple re-routing on most models.
If the bar shape already suits you and you just want your hands higher and closer, this is the cheaper and less disruptive route than buying new bars.
Four inches of rise plus about an inch and a half of pullback, in one-piece CNC 6061-T6 aluminium with a knurled inner clamp so the bar cannot rotate under load.
An owner after more than a year: "Works as intended, good quality, no issues with the hardware after over a year of use."
Now two honest things about what you actually get.
The advertised rise is not the height you gain. Once the pullback is factored in, one owner measured the result as "about 2 inches taller than stock" from a 4 inch riser, and rated the comfort improvement at about five percent. That is a modest, honest assessment and worth reading before you expect a transformation.
Fitment is not universal despite the listing. The same owner had to rotate his 180 degrees on an Iron 883 for tank clearance. Another buyer reports they did not fit a 2025 Fat Boy at all.
So: check tank clearance at full lock and check your bolt spacing before ordering. And remember that added rise loads the cables exactly the way a taller bar does.
What owners say: “Works as intended, good quality, no issues with the hardware after over a year of use. Had to rotate them 180 degrees due to tank lift on my Iron 883. - Nathan”
- 4 in rise with roughly 1-1/2 in of pullback
- CNC one-piece 6061-T6 aluminium
- Knurled inner clamp surface so the bar cannot rotate
- 1/2 in mount bolts, fits most triple trees
- Listing claims stock lines work with re-routing on most models
- Over a year of trouble-free use reported by one owner
- Cheaper and less disruptive than new bars
- Adds pullback as well as height
- One-piece CNC construction
- Knurled clamp stops bar rotation
- Effective gain is nearer 2 in than the advertised 4 in
- Did not fit a 2025 Fat Boy
- Needed rotating 180 degrees on an Iron 883 for tank clearance
- Some models need minor drilling
- Added rise can still stretch cables
TDZ 2 in Handlebar Riser Extensions, Pair
Riser extension spacers. 2 in rise on top of existing risers. 7075 aviation grade aluminium. Requires 1/2 in riser bolt holes. Also in 1 in rise and for 1 in bars.
Fits most Harley Touring, Softail and Dyna. Variants for 1 in and 1.25 in handlebars, black and chrome. REQUIRES 1/2 in riser mount bolts.
Thirteen dollars for two inches of rise, which makes this the cheapest meaningful change to your riding position on the whole site.
Spacers that sit on top of the risers you already have, in 7075 aviation grade aluminium, supplied with bolts, nuts and washers. Sold in 1 inch and 2 inch rises and in versions for both 1 inch and 1.25 inch bars.
An owner: "Worked perfect first time, thank you, I love it." Another prefers the layout: "The top plate works better than having 2 individual tree plates."
Two warnings, both from owners and both worth acting on.
The supplied bolts are the weak point. "Excellent fitment, excellent finish! Only issue was the bolts are garbage, they seized up and broke on installation." Buy grade 8 bolts of the right length at the same time and put the supplied ones in a drawer.
The kit assumes 1/2 inch riser bolts. An owner: "Vendor makes it clear to check your riser bolts and that they will accommodate 1/2 inch mount bolts. Mine were not, as they are metric. I replaced the bolts." Check yours before ordering.
The same owner adds the point this guide keeps making: adding rise can bind cables and wiring at full lock if you have not checked the lengths first. Two inches is not much, but on a bike that is already tight it can be enough.
What owners say: “Excellent fitment, excellent finish! Only issue was the bolts are garbage, they seized up and broke on installation. - Allen Dodd”
- 2 in of rise on top of your existing risers
- 7075 aviation grade aluminium
- Supplied with bolts, nuts and washers
- Variants for 1 in and 1.25 in bars, black and chrome
- Also available in a 1 in rise
- Requires 1/2 in riser mount bolts
- Cheapest way to change your riding position
- No new bars, no new controls
- Good finish and fitment by owner accounts
- Choice of rise, diameter and colour
- Supplied bolts seized and snapped on install for one owner
- Assumes 1/2 in bolts - metric bikes need different hardware
- Can bind cables and wiring at full lock
- Only 2 in, so it is a refinement rather than a transformation
Cable and brake line kits
What you need once the bar goes past roughly 12 inches, or once width and pullback stretch the run. Sized by bar height band, and the band has to include any risers you have added.
Mofun 3-Piece Cable and Brake Line Kit for 16-18 in Bars
Clutch cable, throttle and idle cable, non-ABS front brake line. Sized for 16-18 in bars, with a 12-14 in option. PTFE inner, stainless braid, PVC cover. Removable banjo fittings.
Softail Night Train FXSTB 2000-2006, Softail Deuce FXSTD 2000-2006, Night Train Injected FXSTB I 2001-2006 and other Softail Standard models. Non-ABS only. Kit length must account for bar rise PLUS any risers you have added.
If the cable section of this guide applies to you, this is what it costs to solve: about $136 for all three parts in one order rather than chasing them separately.
Clutch cable, throttle and idle cable, and a non-ABS front brake line, sized as a set for a bar height band. PTFE inner tube with a stainless braid and a PVC outer cover, and the banjo fittings are removable so you can change the angle and size to suit your run.
An owner who bought outside the stated fitment and made it work: "I bought this kit for my 2005 Harley Davidson Softail Deluxe FLSTNI. They weren't supposed to fit my bike but after doing a little bit of research I realised they would."
That research is the part to copy. The correct kit length depends on your bar rise plus any risers you have fitted, and nobody works that out for you.
Two things owners report that you should weigh. The action is not as sharp as factory: "Work well but not as tight as the factory cables." And there is one report of a cable failing: "Warning, cable snapped after 3 months with no warning."
One report among twenty-five ratings is not a pattern, but a snapped throttle or clutch cable is not a minor inconvenience. Inspect them at services, and if you ride hard or far, factory cables from a dealer are a defensible upgrade over a budget kit.
What owners say: “I bought this kit for my 2005 Harley Davidson Softail Deluxe. They weren't supposed to fit my bike but after doing a little bit of research I realised they would. - Nate C.”
- Three parts in one kit: clutch, throttle and idle, front brake line
- Sized for 16-18 in bars, with a 12-14 in option
- PTFE inner tube, stainless braid, PVC outer cover
- Removable banjo fittings so angle and size can be changed
- Mounting hardware included, cables factory lubricated
- Non-ABS front brake line
- Everything a tall bar swap needs in one order
- Removable banjos let you tune the routing
- Braided lines and factory lubricated cables
- Owners fit it outside the stated model list successfully
- One report of a cable snapping after three months
- Action described as looser than factory cables
- You have to work out the correct length yourself
- Non-ABS only
- Only 25 ratings
Mofun 52 in Braided Front Brake Line, 6.5 in Longer Than Stock
52 in non-ABS front brake line, 6.5 in longer than stock, for 12-14 in bars. PTFE inner, polished stainless braid. 90 degree and straight banjos plus four crush washers. SINGLE DISC ONLY.
Softail Fat Boy, Heritage, Softail Standard, Night Train and Custom 2000-2010; Dyna Low Rider, Street Bob, Super Glide 1995-2011. SINGLE FRONT DISC ONLY. Replaces OE 42317-06A, 45199-99B, 45119-00B.
The brake line is almost always the first thing to run out when you fit taller or wider bars, because it takes the longest route. If that is your only problem, this solves it for $56 rather than $136 for a full kit.
Fifty-two inches, which is 6.5 inches longer than stock, sized for 12 to 14 inch bars. PTFE inner tube, polished stainless braid, clear PVC outer, and both 90 degree and straight banjo fittings in the box with four crush washers.
Confirmed on a taller setup than its stated band: "Works good on 2007 Harley Davidson Night Train with 14 inch apes." And on fit: "Fit like a glove, very nice looking, bolted right up."
Two practical notes.
The supplied banjo bolts do not always thread properly. An owner: "The banjos didn't thread in but my originals were perfect. Gave me the stretch I needed." Keep your old banjos to hand rather than throwing them away.
Single disc only. If your bike has twin front discs this is the wrong line. And there are no instructions in the box, per the listing itself.
Standard advice applies to any brake line change: bleed it properly, and check for leaks with the bike stationary before you rely on it.
What owners say: “Works good on 2007 Harley Davidson Night Train with 14 in apes. - Smiley”
- 52 in, which is 6.5 in longer than stock
- Sized for 12-14 in bars, confirmed by an owner on 14 in apes
- PTFE inner tube with polished stainless braid
- 90 degree and straight banjo fittings plus four crush washers
- Replaces several OE part numbers directly
- A third of the price of a full three-piece kit
- Solves the most common single problem in a bar swap
- Cheaper than buying a whole kit
- Both banjo angles supplied
- Owner confirmed on 14 in apes
- Supplied banjo bolts did not thread for one owner
- Single front disc only
- No instructions in the box
- Non-ABS only
Wiring and clamps
The plug-and-play extension harness that solves short switch wiring without splicing, and a matched riser and top clamp kit. Both cheap, both the sort of thing people order a week late.
TIGERSGATE 16 in CAN-Bus Handlebar Wiring Extension Harness
Adds 16 in to the stock CAN-bus handlebar switch harness. Plug and play into stock connectors, no cutting or splicing. Also in 8, 12 and 14 in. Connectors small enough to hide inside the bar.
Fits 2011-2023 Softail, 2012-2023 Dyna, 2014-2023 Touring, 2014-2023 Sportster. IMPORTANT: the throttle-by-wire extension is a SEPARATE purchase and is not included.
Twenty-eight dollars, plug and play, and it removes the worst part of a tall bar install: cutting and splicing the switch wiring.
It plugs into the stock connectors at both ends and adds length, with colour coded wires and connectors small enough to hide inside the handlebar. Sold in 8, 12, 14 and 16 inch versions so you can match it to your rise.
Owners fitting exactly the bars this guide covers. On 12 inch bars: "I used these extensions after adding 12 inch Factory 47 meat hooks to my Street Glide and also for a set of KST Six Bends for my Tri Glide." On a riser install: "Got this to use with my 10 inch riser install on my 2024 Low Rider ST. It's plug and play and fit perfectly." And on apes: "Very nice extension adding 12 apes on my Ultra, these were just what I needed to get a little more slack."
A 14 inch bar owner: "All connections fit properly and the length was correct."
The one thing to watch: the electronic throttle-by-wire harness is not included and has to be bought separately. If your Harley has an electronic throttle, ordering only this leaves you one part short, and that is an easy thing to miss.
Match the length to your rise. Buyers who guess end up with too little slack, and there is no point buying an extension that does not extend far enough.
What owners say: “Got this to use with my 10 in riser install on my 2024 Low Rider ST. It's plug and play and fit perfectly, seems to be functioning well. Good value. - LJ Phoenix”
- Plug and play into stock connectors, no cutting or splicing
- Sold in 8, 12, 14 and 16 in lengths to match your rise
- Colour coded wires with male and female pins
- Connectors small enough to hide inside the handlebar
- Fits 2011-2023 Softail through 2014-2023 Touring and Sportster
- 184 ratings at 4.6, the best rated part in this guide after the clamp
- Removes the need to splice switch wiring entirely
- Length options match real bar heights
- Connectors hide inside the bar
- Confirmed by owners on 10, 12 and 14 in setups
- Throttle-by-wire harness is NOT included and is a separate part
- Length must be matched to the rise or you get too little slack
- Does not cover pre-2011 bikes
TIKGETUP Chrome Handlebar Riser and Top Clamp Kit, 1 in
Riser plus one-piece top clamp, 2 in tall. For 1 in clamping area with 3.5 in centre-to-centre riser spacing. 7075 aerospace aluminium, anodised. Mounting screws included. Also for 1.25 in bars and in black.
For any standard 1 in Harley handlebar with 3.5 in centre-to-centre riser mount spacing. Fits Touring, Road King, Softail, Dyna and Sportster. A 1.25 in version is sold separately - order the one matching YOUR bar.
The highest rated product in this guide, and the part you need if you are changing bar diameter or want a cleaner top clamp than the stock two-piece arrangement.
Riser plus a one-piece top clamp in 7075 aerospace aluminium with an anodised finish, two inches tall, screws included.
An owner: "This clamp is TOP NOTCH! Bars don't move at all and it looks great! Very happy with the purchase." Another, briefly: "Simple to install."
Two things to check before ordering, and both come from owners who did not.
Diameter. This is the 1 inch version and there is a 1.25 inch version sold separately. One buyer ordered wrong: "Very nice part. It looks good on the bike, it just wouldn't fit on my bike. I am actually buying another one that I hope fits." Measure your bar at the riser clamp, not at the grips.
Height. Another owner: "Make sure and measure, they were a 1/2 inch too tall, had to have them machined down." Two inches of riser is two inches of extra cable stretch, and on a bike already at its limit that half inch matters.
Bolt spacing. It only works on triple trees with 3.5 inch centre-to-centre riser spacing, which is standard on most Harleys but not universal.
What owners say: “This clamp is TOP NOTCH!! Bars don't move at all and it looks great!! Very happy with the purchase!! - Mike Weiler”
- Riser plus one-piece top clamp, cleaner than the stock arrangement
- 7075 aerospace grade aluminium, anodised
- 2 in tall, for 1 in clamping area
- 3.5 in centre-to-centre riser mount spacing
- Mounting screws included
- Also sold for 1.25 in bars and in black
- Highest rated product in this guide at 4.8
- Solves the diameter change when moving to fat bars
- One-piece top clamp looks cleaner than two-piece
- Aerospace grade aluminium
- Buyers order the wrong diameter - measure at the riser clamp
- Ran half an inch tall for one owner, who had it machined down
- Only fits 3.5 in centre-to-centre riser spacing
- Adds 2 in of cable stretch on top of your bar rise
Harley Handlebars - FAQs
What are the best Harley Davidson handlebars?
Do I need longer cables for taller handlebars?
What is the difference between 1 inch and 1.25 inch Harley handlebars?
Are Harley ape hangers legal?
Do I need risers or new handlebars?
How do I run the wiring through new handlebars?
The short version
- Measure rise, pullback and width, not just rise. Width and pullback stretch cables too.
- Under 12 inches, stock lines usually reach. Over 14, budget a kit. Check at full lock before you order.
- Measure the clamping diameter at the riser, not at the grips. Fat bars often taper.
- Check the wiring type - pre-drilled, dimpled or plain - before buying, not after.
- Risers are 3.5 inches centre to centre on most Harleys, and extensions assume 1/2 inch bolts.
- Throttle-by-wire needs its own extension harness. It is not in the box.
- Check your state's bar height law. One listing in ten will mention it.
Before you order anything: measure the clamping diameter at the riser, turn the bars to full lock and look for a tight line, and check whether the bar is pre-drilled or dimpled. Those three checks decide whether this is a small job or a big one.
